Published by
Gary R. Ferguson – Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears - Raku Glaze Book
* From The Studio - Commissions Plans and Bisquing
* Article - Converting an Electric Kiln - Logan Hamilton
* Tips/Techniques - Getting Copper
* Q&A - Moldy Clay and an Electric Kiln
* Glazing - Rick's Turquoise
* Reader Feedback - Lots of Input from all of you
* Calendar - Limited in 2004
* Click Away - Raku on the Internet
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* While the Smoke Clears *
Hello to all you new and old Just Raku Subscribers and hope you enjoy this
issue.
First off, I have been very happy with the results on my Raku Glaze eBook
that I released last month. The interest has been steady and the feedback very
positive. You can see the details at: http://www.rakuglazes.com
The following is a special request from a Just Raku subscriber:
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Donations are needed to help TRAX gallery in Berkeley, Ca. produce a color
catalog for the Fall retrospective show to he put on in Hal Riegger's honor. Hal
was and still is a pioneer in the exploration of Raku in America, and pretty
much everyone who does Raku in America has been influenced by his early work,
knowingly or unknowingly. Hal has published many books, including Primitive
Pottery, and Raku, Art & Technique, and even two on railroads!
Usually, a catalog is paid for by part of the sales of a gallery show, but no
pots will be sold at this one. This makes it necessary to raise money from
non-traditional sources, like Gary's fine newsletter. Please consider making a
donation, big or small, to help honor Hal's long and industrious career. Hal is
a dear, sweet man, and any contribution will be gratefully appreciated.
Donations can be sent by April 30, 2004 to: Gregg Lindsley, Earth and Fire
Pottery, PO Box 402, Cobb, Ca. 95426.
---
This month we have another guest article, this time from Logan Hamilton on
converting an electric kiln to a Raku kiln. Thanks Logan!
Remember I always look forward to your feedback, suggestions, questions,
article, and article ideas at: mailto:editor@garyrferguson.com.
Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist -
mailto:pottery@garyrferguson.com
PS. I'm behind on one of my resolutions of doubling the number of subscribers
this year. Please help me out by forwarding a copy of this newsletter to your
friends and ask them to subscribe. - Thanks!
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Would you like to dine out for 1/2 price? Get the annual Entertainment book now
and save 50% at your favorite restaurants. Free shipping is still available at: http://tinyurl.com/ubmk
I personally get at least one of these books every year.
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* From the Studio *
Studio work has been a little slow this month. I have fired several bisque
loads - getting ready to glaze fire when the weather starts getting a little
better. I'm going to be scrambling to get pieces ready and photographed in time
to apply for a new Lark book.
I've also been contacted on a possible commission piece. I'm very excited
about this work. It looks like it may involve a wall piece composed of 16 large
tiles that when hung will create one group piece. Still working on the design
and agreement, but I really looking forward to create a piece like this. Might
make a good topic for future newsletter.
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* Article *
Converting an Electric Kiln
By Logan Hamilton
One thing You should do first when creating a Raku kiln out of an electric
kiln is obviously remove the elements. Remove everything, even the electrical
boxes on the outside.
Then go through and plug up the old spy holes with shaved down soft brick
plugs or wadded up fiber fax. You may want to leave one of the spy holes
unplugged or possibly make one bigger so you can watch the cones or the glaze
gloss over. But make sure you make a removable plug for your spy hole.
Next you should order a burner. Some people use weed burners that you can get
from your local farm store however, regulating these can be trying because you
can't adjust the air flow as easily to control your flame. You can purchase a
decent Venturi burner from various pottery supply companies for about $40.
A couple other things you will need are a flexible hose to deliver the
propane to the burner, around $22 at your local
farm store or propane supplier, gas regulator valve, to connect to the burner to
adjust gas flow about $19, and last a propane tank $25 for a 25lb tank or about
$50 for a 50lb tank.
After you get your burner measure the diameter and cut a hole in the bottom
side of your kiln that is a little more than .25 inches lager than the diameter
of the burner. Cutting the hole at an angle almost parallel to the inside wall
of the kiln will help. If you aim the burner in at the same angle you can create
a circular current in the kiln that will make your kiln fire more efficiently.
It is the same principle as a convection oven. Also when you are ready to place
your burner on the kiln let the front end of the burner hover right outside the
casing of your kiln.
Next you need to cut a hole in the center of your lid for your flue. This
hole should be the same exact size as the hole you cut for your burner port.
This is just a hole you do not need to try to make a damper.
One thing I would suggest is if you have access to a welder make a armature
with a pulley system attached to the front handle of the kiln lid. That way some
one can pull the metal cord and open the kiln from the back.
That's it you should be ready to go!
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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
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* Tips and Techniques *
Getting Copper
How do you get copper? Usually if you are firing a glaze that contains copper
carbonate and you are getting only green there is not enough reduction taking
place, either during the firing or the post firing reduction or both.
If you want to increase the chance of getting copper you need to:
1) Fire the kiln in reduction for the last 10 minutes of the firing
2) Quickly remove the piece from the kiln to a reduction chamber that has
combustibles that quickly ignite (I most often use sheets of newspaper.
3) Quickly seal the container as best as you can. This may involve a sand pit,
water lock, wet newspapers in a lid, etc.
4) You may want to lightly spray the reduction can with water to help cool the
container.
4) Don't peek for 20-30 minutes (or more)
5) Remove the piece from reduction chamber and dunk in a bucket of water to
quickly finish cooling.
You should get copper using these steps.
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* Q & A *
Q:
I have a small electric kiln, but did not want to risk the elements by firing
Raku in it, by having to open the door at a high temp. Is there a way I could
make a small outside kiln to do the Raku part in. I do smoke firing outside
sometimes in a small tin fire with charcoal. Also could you tell me if it is
O.k. to use clay that has had some mold on it, will it fire alright if some of
the mold is left on?
A:
It is ok to fire Raku in an electric kiln. I know a production Raku potter in
Florida that only uses electric kilns (both bisque and glaze firing). You just
want to make sure you cut the power before reaching in with metal tongs to
remove the pieces.
You can make a small kiln, but you need to either buy firebrick or ceramic
fiber, as the temperatures needed for Raku reach about 1800F, which would melt
most other materials.
It is perfectly fine to use clay with mold. In fact, I have heard from some
potters that the mold - once wedged into the clay - improves the clay for most
construction techniques. It should not affect the firing process or results.
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* Glazing *
Rick's Turquoise
Glossy: Turquoise (Oxidation), Red/Copper (Reduction)
Gerstley Borate 33
Nepheline Syenite 17
Spodumene 17
Lithium Carbonate 17
Zircopax 16
Copper Carbonate 2.2
This is a very interesting glaze. It needs to be fired a little hotter than
some. In oxidation you may get Turquoise. In reduction, you may get reds and
copper. If you place in a nest of newspapers and then spray with water you may
get a rainbow of turquoise, red, copper, yellow, and green. You can see a couple
examples of this glaze at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/gallery3.htm
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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
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* Reader Feedback *
* * *
Hi Gary,
I enjoy your newsletters very much...keep up the good work. I am a member of the
Peterbourgh Potters Guild in Ontario, Canada and they are always looking for
tips etc to publish in their newsletter. Your information is very helpful, as we
have many who Raku. Can I submit any part of your newsletter and give you
credit?
Thanx
Debbie W.
Hi Debbie:
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it! Yes, you can quote sections of the
Just Raku Newsletters, but I would ask that you include the following tag line
at the bottom of any reference:
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Excerpt from the Just Raku Newsletter by Gary R. Ferguson
Gallery Website: http://www.garyrferguson.com
Free Raku Newsletter: http://www.justraku.com
Raku Glaze Collection: http://www.rakuglazes.com
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Thanks,
Gary F
* * *
Hi, I just came across your recipe page. Looks good and love the recipes.
However, I am in Singapore and it is very difficult to do Raku here. I was
planning to use the glazes on buff Raku clay, but fire them in a conventional
gas fiber kiln with reduction. Do you think this would work as well or
reasonably well, to usual results? I am actually looking for strong sculptural
and textural glazes for use on sculptures and abstract pieces. Looking forward
to you response,
Thanks
Dom V.
Hi Dom:
Yes, you can fire the Raku glazes in a normal reduction gas firing, but the
results generally will not be the same unless you do the post firing reduction
as well. For example, if you use a copper rich glaze, you will likely get copper
(or red) results due to the reduction firing, but you probably won't get the
crackle effect (caused by quick cooling), and you definitely won't get black
bare clay from any smoke that would be produced in the post firing process.
Hopefully this helps.
Gary F
* * *
Gary,
I really look forward to your issue of "Just Raku" every month. More
information than ever filter out of ceramic monthly. Enjoy all your articles and
tips. Going to take one of the "Naked Raku" workshops with Wally
Asselberghs in Scottsdale. Keep up the good work. Keep the information coming.
Janet
Janet:
Thanks! I appreciate it! Let me know how the workshop goes. It would probably
make a great article for a future newsletter - hint, hint.
:)
Take care,
Gary F
* * *
Hi Gary,
Just wanted to tell you I love your web site. It always brings a smile to my
face and some laughs too. I am a Raku artist from New York. Your working with
Richard Notkin sounded amazing! I hope he will visit NY sometime for a workshop.
I feel it is really important to work with other artists and was wondering about
your thoughts on a single person visiting NCECA. Well I am not single, I have
kids and pets but would like to visit and learn something.
Thanks,
Gina
Hi Gina:
Thanks for the feedback. Richard is a really nice guy. In fact, every clay
workshop I have taken, the potter has been very nice. I take all I can to learn
as many techniques as possible. As far as NCECA goes, I have never been to one -
yet - but from what I hear it is an excellent opportunity to meet and interact
which ceramic artists from all over the world. If you have the opportunity to
go, I think I would take it.
Gary F.
* * *
Gary,
What a very good job you have done with this book [Raku Glazes]. Superb. I
especially like the fact that is available on download and in Acrobat (.pdf)
format. It is so much easier to perform lookups with it in this format.
I also especially like the fact that you have included notes and comments from
your own trials with some of the recipes. My only wish is that there were more.
Those will be among the first I try. It will be a major occupation for my future
Raku work to make my way through these recipes. What a great foundation on which
to build that you have given us all. Thanks again for a job so well done,
Susan G.
Susan:
Thanks for the feedback on the book. The Glaze Comments are definitely an area
that will continue to expand in future editions (which you will receive for
free). I would also be curious to hear about any results you have with the
glazes.
Thanks again!
Gary F
Shameless Plug Coming . . . You can get your copy at http://www.rakuglazes.com
* * *
Thank you. Got the newsletter and enjoyed so much the information in it
especially since I'm a new Raku potter with 25 years of electric firing
earthenware pottery. It feels like a child exploring the world of forms,
textures and colors. Great initiative.
-Unsigned
-Unsigned:
Clay is one of those great mediums that even after 25 years there is still
something new to try.
Thanks,
Gary F.
* * *
I read that you want to Raku multi-sectional pots. BRAVE MAN. I have thrown
sooooooo many pots away it's not even funny. Lot's of grog, coffee grounds,
sawdust, etc. will help. I have found that allowing the kiln to cool and the
pots not as hot will help in the transfer and then the reduction process to be
much more pot friendly. Most glazes are not affected. Avoid having sharp angle
changes. The heat cannot transfer evenly and will result in cracks.
You just have to love it.
-Unsigned
-Unsigned:
I will keep these tips in mind. They survived the bisque firing but that is
nothing compared to the Raku firing.
Thanks,
Gary F.
* * *
Hi Gary,
Recently purchased your book. I have not had a chance to try any of the
multitudes of recipes, since the weather has not permitted me to complete my
outside Raku kiln. I do have one suggestion that would really help potters who
are new at Raku. The addition of examples of the glazes (photos) would really
help in choosing glazes to use. The book is going to be a valuable resource in
my collection.
Regards,
Marty B.
Hi Marty:
I appreciate the suggestion. In many cases, the glaze name will give you a
good idea of what will result - clear, white, blue, green, turquoise, purple,
matte, crackle, etc. but I have not included pictures of the glazes for a few
reasons. As you may know, the Raku process is VERY dynamic and the results can
depend on variables such as the clay used, form shape and thickness, firing
speed and temperature, glaze application method and thickness, kiln reduction,
post-firing reduction materials and methods, just to name a few. This being the
case I felt it would be very difficult to accurately portray the glaze results
that could be easily reproduced. I have often fired the same glaze on two
different pieces and gotten very different results, so I wouldn't know what was
"typical" to include as any example. I do have some thoughts of taking
just a few dozen glazes and trying to document reproducible results, but that
will involve a LOT of test firings.
Thanks again!
Gary F.
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* Calendar *
My show calendar for 2004 will probably be smaller than in the past. I only
plan on doing two or three shows, but spending more time focusing on eBay sales.
This way I can spend more time with the family and less time sitting in a booth.
June - Art & Roses (Tentative)
Nov - Beaux Arts Holiday Show (Tentative)
TBD - Studio Open House
On going eBay Listings
http://tinyurl.com/tn08
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Advertise your Raku products or services here to reach over 900 Raku Enthusiasts
for only $5 per month. That is less than a penny per contact. Includes URL,
email address and four 60-character lines. For details contact:
http://advertise@garyrferguson.com
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* Click Away *
Rick Mace
http://www.prismagems.com/pottery/artists.html
Nina Kellogg
http://www.ninakellogg.com/
Got Raku? It does a Clay Body Good!
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
300+ Raku Glaze Recipes
http://www.rakuglazes.com
Just Raku Newsletter Archive
The past issues can be found at http://www.JustRaku.com
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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2004, Gary R. Ferguson
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