The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers
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April 2004
Issue #19
Published by
Gary R. Ferguson - Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears - Email Fun, NOT!
* From The Studio - Finally Weather to Raku
* Article -Keeping Your Glaze Mark Free
* Tips/Techniques - Only Mix what you Need
* Q&A - Source for Colorants
* Glazing - Gold Raku
* Bookworm - Raku by John Mathieson
* Reader Feedback - Keep them coming
* Calendar - Where's Gary?
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* While the Smoke Clears *
Welcome to a slightly late version of the newsletter. It has been a
busy, busy last couple of weeks - some of it even Raku related.
First off, I have had issues with receiving and/or sending email via my
ISP not once, not twice, but three times over the last several weeks. This
meant that for periods of up to 48 hours, email that was sent to me never
arrived, and the sender never knew there was an issue. AARRGGHH! So if you
send me a message during the last several weeks, I may not be ignoring
you, I may never have ever received it. (I remember when not getting mail
was always blamed on the Post Office).
Second, it is tax season (at least in the US). Did you get your taxes
filed? This is always a challenge to figure out what can be deducted and
how to record expenses, especially with running a small pottery business.
Third, and most important, my wife and I have just had our second child
- Trevor Garret Ferguson - born April 9, 2004. Both mother and baby are
home from the hospital and doing fine.
Well I guess that is enough non-Raku stuff, on to the rest of the
newsletter and remember I always look forward to your feedback,
suggestions, questions, and article ideas at: mailto:editor@garyrferguson.com.
Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist -
mailto:pottery@garyrferguson.com
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Would you like to dine out for 1/2 price? Get the annual Entertainment
book now and save 50% at your favorite restaurants. Free shipping is still
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I personally get at least one of these books every year.
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* From the Studio *
Well the weather cooperated in March and I actually had a chance to
fire a few loads of Raku. I even tried a few new recipes as well. One of
the new ones - Gold Raku - is covered in this issue.
I also managed to finish some Raku Cups, get photos taken, slides
developed, selected, and mailed off to apply to be included in a new Lark
Publication, "500 Cups." So, I'm now eagerly awaiting to hear is
any pieces were selected for this new book.
I managed to get a few pieces listed on ebay again as well, and had
pretty positive responses again. In addition, my first show is scheduled
for the beginning of June (maybe), so I'm going to have to get moving on
producing some more pieces.
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* Article *
Mark Free Raku Glaze Results
Some people are concerned about keeping their glazes free from any marks
from the reduction materials. Many times when reducing glossy or crackle
glazes, the reduction materials will make marks in the soft glaze,
especially "hard" reduction materials such as: leaves, pine
needles, cardboard, etc. Some Rakuist feel these marks are just part of
the "Raku Process", but some do not want their pieces to be
"marked". If you are one of the later, here are a few techniques
to have mark-free Raku.
First, you can let the glaze cool more before it is placed in the
reduction chamber. A cooler glaze will be harder and less likely to be
marked by the reduction materials. This technique works well with glazes
that do not required heavy reduction to obtain the desired colors, but if
heavy reduction is required, meaning a quick trip from the kiln to the
reduction chamber, then giving the glaze a chance to cool first is not an
option.
Regardless of the technique used, selecting "softer"
combustibles is always a better idea. Pine needles, leaves, or straw are
stiffer combustibles than say, newspaper or fine sawdust. These
"softer" materials are less likely to mark the glaze and will
ignite quicker and help produce a better reduction atmosphere.
It may seem obvious but if you don't want the glaze to be marked by the
reduction materials you need to keep the reduction materials from touching
the piece. There are many ways to do this.
First you should have a brick or stack of bricks on the bottom of you
reduction chamber so the pieces do not sit on the reduction materials.
Sheets of newspaper can be placed along the insides of garbage to
provide enough combustibles for reduction, but still not touch the piece.
With another method, you place combustibles in the bottom of a bucket
or can, then place wire mesh over the combustible, which is held in place
by wedging it against the sides of the container. Then the whole container
can be placed upside down over a piece setting in a sand pit. This way the
combustibles ignite from the heat, but the mesh keeps them off the piece.
Hopefully this will help keep your glazes "mark free."
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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
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* Tips and Techniques *
Many Raku glazes work better when they are mixed "fresh"
meaning the dry chemicals are mixed with water just before use and not
stored for days, weeks, or months. This is not the case with all glazes,
but if you get one kind of result the first time you mix a glaze and then
it is drastically different the next time after the glaze has been mixed
with water for a period of time, it may be the glaze is affected by
"freshness."
Almost all my glazes, I dry mix a large batch and then only mix the
needed amount with water right before I apply it to a piece.
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New! For a limited time only you can get Just Raku Logowear. This is a
great way to show your support for the newsletter. To see what is
available go to:
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* Q & A *
Q: I am wishing to try some of the recipes I have for a Gold Raku glaze
and am unable to find a supplier who carries silver nitrate. Do you happen
to know where I can get it?
A: Try US Pigment Corp
http://www.uspigment.com/
135 N. Manchester Lane
Bloomingdale, IL 60108
Phone: (630) 893-9217
Toll Free: 1-800-472-9500
Fax: (630) 893-4763
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* Glazing *
Gold Raku
Gerstley Borate 80
Cornwall Stone 20
Nickel Oxide 10
This is a gold Raku that does not require Silver Nitrate. It is a
brownish semi-glossy gold. It is fired hotter than some Raku glazes. This
glaze needs to be screened to remove larger particles that don't melt
properly and remain as white particles.
This glaze and 300+ More are available at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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Got Raku?
You can at http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
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* Bookworm *
Raku by John Mathieson
http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
In this book author John Mathieson discusses the clays and glazes that
are suitable for the Raku technique. He also covers kilns and burners, and
firing and post-firing reduction techniques. There is also a nice
collection of examples from an international group of artists. The net
result is a handy and motivational guide to the most exciting firing
methods. The book is suitable for ceramic artists of any level.
Order via the following link, get free shipping, and help support this
Newsletter:
http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
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* Reader Feedback *
* * *
Hi Gary,
I have been earmarking pages with Raku glazes in magazines and books for
years and your great book has put them all in one place for me. You've
included the ones I've noted and so many more! You've done my organizing
for me. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks! In addition, I use a PDA all the time; I
refer to it now as my external memory. After I downloaded 300 + Raku
Glazes in Adobe, I then loaded it into the Adobe Palm format and was able
to sync it into my PDA. This has been great for me; I can carry my book
with me! I have created my own glaze database for all the other kinds of
glazes that I use and have them in there, too. I no longer have multiple
sheets of paper with recipes everywhere that can easily be lost. I like
the format of your firing results data page, I had failed to put the
conditions of the atmosphere on mine, a very crucial piece of information.
You have lots of good, useful, practical information other than just
glazes in your book. Those of us that Raku have needed a resource like the
one you put together for a long time. Thanks for all your time, effort,
and willingness to share and educate.
Blessings,
Sherrill E.
Hi Sherrill:
Thanks, and I'm glad you are enjoying the Raku Glazes eBook, which is
available at http://www.rakuglazes.com
Gary F.
* * *
Hey Gary,
Our class fired again last night, and the instructor followed the tips you
e-mailed [appeared in the last issue of the newsletter] to me and voila.
BOY do we have copper. I think the last ten minutes of reduction in the
kiln was most beneficial. Its great knowing that we can do it, and I
really appreciate your help. Now I'm thinking we need a little less
reduction so we can achieve more variation. We went from every shade of
green (all of our previous firings) to all copper. Is this best achieved
by decreasing the reduction in firing, or opening the can lid to let
oxygen in?
Thanks again!
Shannon P.
P.s. The Reynolds Rap looked especially good.
Shannon:
That's great, glad it worked out. Now you're asking a tough question.
Getting all green or getting all copper is generally a little easier to
control that trying to control the mix. I find, getting a mix is something
that you can control better during the post firing reduction process -
slower to the reduction chamber, burping the container, and/or removing
from the reduction chamber earlier.
Good Luck!
Gary F.
* * *
Hi
I am a Raku potter living on Vancouver island, British Columbia, Canada. A
woman has actually approached me, and wants to market my work for me on
e-Bay, so I did a little surfing. I received a copy of your survey results
on the subject (a great start for me). I have never used an agent before,
and she is unclear as to what percentage she wants to charge me for her
services. I am wondering how much of your time you have to invest in
maintaining your e-Bay site, and your web site. I would appreciate any
insights you can share.
P.S. Just down loaded your extensive list of glaze recipes and can't wait
to try a few new ones and will be happy to share a few of my own
Thanks for your time,
Ellen
Hi Ellen:
Glad you found my site. I've never head of agent for eBay before, but I
guess it is possible. I would want to know the percentage they expect, and
what duties they will perform. If you want to off load the ebay work to
someone (picture taking, writing listings, handling bidder questions,
payments, shipping, etc.) that could be worth a percentage and you would
have to determine if it was worth it to you. As far as time goes, that
really depends on how much you want to focus on ebay and web sales (two
separate jobs really). Getting started is probably the most work for
either case. Once you get some auction templates created you can create
auction listing fairly quickly. It still takes some time to take pictures,
edit, and post them, but not a lot of time. Same thing with a website.
There is a lot of work to set one up to begin with, but then to keep it
current really doesn't take much time.
Hopefully this answered your questions.
Gary F.
* * *
Hello Gary
Sorry it has taken such a long time to respond to a question from Allyson
[Posted in a prior issue of the newsletter]. The mixture that I am using
right now is 880 grams of a very fine black copper oxide and 120 grams of
a high alkaline frit. I have tried many (different) types of black copper
oxide; the one I am currently using comes from Germany, and is very fine,
almost like powder. Here you have to do a lot of experimenting, altering
the mixture more frit and less copper or the other way around.
I have also had good results from using copper carbonate instead of copper
oxide. The best results I am having right is on a white stoneware body
which is produced on our island. Very convenient. I fire to around cone 06
to 05, (1025 Cent.), and now the fun begins. I hope that this can be of
some help. Gary, what a Great job your a doing with your news letter. Keep
em coming.
Bye for now.
Dan L.
Hi Dan:
I appreciate your willingness to share your recipe and firing processes
for others to try.
Thanks,
Gary F.
* * *
Hi Gary,
Your book is chocked full of great info. I have purchased a small amount
of silver nitrate to do some experimenting. One of your recipes is Gold
Raku. There is a warning "do not expose to light". What does
this mean? The glaze should not be exposed to the sunlight? Any tip you
can give me I would appreciate. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
cure.
Thanks,
Don F.
Hi Don:
Glad you are enjoying the book. The chemical Silver Nitrate is very
sensitive to light (it's the stuff that is involved in developing film).
The raw chemical or mixed glaze containing silver nitrate should not be
exposed to light. So keep the chemical in a dark container and only mix up
the amount of glaze you are going to use at one time. Once it is fired
light should affect it like any other Raku glaze.
Gary F.
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* Calendar *
My show calendar for 2004 will probably be smaller than in the past. I
only plan on doing two or three shows, but spending more time focusing on
eBay sales. This way I can spend more time with the family and less time
sitting in a booth.
June - Art & Roses (Waiting List)
Nov - Beaux Arts Holiday Show (Tentative)
TBD - Studio Open House
On going eBay Listings
http://tinyurl.com/tn08
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Just Raku Newsletter Archive
The past issues can be found at http://www.JustRaku.com
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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2004, Gary R. Ferguson
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