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The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers
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August 2004
Issue #22
Published by
Gary R. Ferguson - Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears
* From The Studio - Web Sales and Beaux Arts Show
* Q & A
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* While the Smoke Clears *
Hello subscribers:
This issue is a little different than most. It is primarily
a Q&A issue - where I answer your questions. I've cleared out my backlog
of questions and covered most of them in this issue.
I've also updated the Just Raku website http://www.justraku.com
to have all the latest issues. Enjoy!
Remember I always look forward to your feedback,
suggestions, questions, and article ideas at: mailto:editor@garyrferguson.com.
Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist -
mailto:pottery@garyrferguson.com
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* From the Studio *
Didn't get a chance to do much studio work this month, but I
did have some good sales via my website. It's always a nice surprise to have
an email from someone in the world that stumbled onto my site and found a
piece they want.
I also heard back from my Beaux Arts Holiday show
application. I had pieces accepted, actually a lot of pieces accepted. Last
year I only had about 1/3 of what I proposed accepted. This year they
accepted about 3/4 of what I offered. This means I need to get busy in the
studio, in a big way!
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* Q & A *
Hi Gary,
It was nice reviewing your web page and downloading your Raku Glazes. Just
this past week I did a Raku firing up in Santa Rosa and am hooked. I've just
gotten back in to pottery these past 6 months and have been throwing up
a storm so I thought I'd try the old Raku. Anyhow, the one question I had
was what clay body are you working with? Is it a Raku clay I would suspect?
I've been using a soldate pug mix and am wondering if your clay bodies
results would be different with the glazing formulas.
Anyway, thanks again.
Sincerely,
Mike R.
Hi Mike:
Glad you have you have discovered the world of Raku and I hope you start
feeling better (stop "throwing up").
[Sorry for the bad potter humor!]
For my Raku work, I typically use a stoneware clay called Soldate 60 by
Laguna. It's a cone 10-clay with some grog that seems to work well for both
throwing and handbuilding.
The clay you use can affect the glaze result. For example a red clay will
affect the glaze color more than a white clay will. Also how the clay
shrinks in comparison to the glaze will impact the crackle effect. So, try
several different types of clay with your glazes and see what you get.
Gary F.
* * *
* * *
Hello Mr Ferguson,
It would be no problem to send you the $20 dollars for your book. My problem
is that if I am not mistaken your offering is an online book and I don't
have my own computer. I don't always have access to one. On you site there
is a link to Cobalt metal salts. Could you tell me about that supplier? I
have wanted to find a dark blue gloss Raku glaze with a metallic luster to
it. I would like to combine that effect with a gloss gold (not copper)
effect in an random abstract pattern. Is such a glaze possible? Thank you
for answering my questions.
Sincerely
Michael T
Hi Michael:
My Raku Glaze book is actually available in two forms:
eBook at: http://www.rakuglazes.com
and can be purchased using a credit card via PayPal or using a check or
money order send to the address below.
Or a printed Book at: http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
and can be purchased using a credit card or check via that site. (This
method does involve a shipping charge).
As far as "cobalt salts", I'm assuming you mean Cobalt Oxide or
Cobalt Carbonate that are used in many Raku glazes. These chemicals are
available from almost any pottery supplier (such as):
ClayArtCenter.com http://www.clayartcenter.com/chem_raw_a.htm
Seattle Pottery Supply http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
New Mexico Clay http://www.nmclay.com
Thanks for your questions.
Gary F.
* * *
Thanks for ebook. It will keep me in glazes forever. The substitution chart
is handy. I've had good results with alligator
Many Thanks from Ireland.
Julian S.
Julian:
Another satisfied customer! Thanks for the feedback.
Gary F.
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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
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* Q & A Continued I *
Hi Gary,
I'd like to know if you ever use stoneware clay for your Raku or do you
always use Raku clay with grog? I mostly hand build but I sometimes throw a
series of pots and I really have a hard time throwing with the grog.
Thanks,
Libby K.
Hi Libby:
As I mentioned above I use a stoneware clay called Soldate 60 by Laguna. It
has a little grog and does not seem to be too bad on the hands for throwing.
There is a Laguna 30, which has more and larger grog that does tend to
"sandpaper" your hands during throwing.
Gary F.
* * *
* * *
Last year I made a beautiful copper glaze-by mistake- did
not write it down and now I am trying to duplicate- My question- what can I
add to the following recipe for more color? It is too dark.
Borax 180
Gerstley Borate 760
Lithium Carbonate 100
Frit 3110 480
Kona F4 480
Copper Carbonate 180
Sincerely appreciate your help.
Thanks
Mary M.
Mary
I'm not sure what you mean by "too dark." If it is primary dark
green, you could reduce the amount of copper in the glaze or you may need a
heavier reduction to achieve rainbow or copper colors. This means either
firing in reduction, or heavy post-firing reduction. You can also experiment
with thicker or thinner glaze application. Sometimes this can greatly affect
the results of a Copper based glaze.
Gary F.
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* Q & A Continued II *
Hi Gary,
First I would like to thank you for putting up all the useful info. I am
just starting to think about experimenting with Raku firing and glaze
formulation. The process is great fun. My guestion is about the glaze used
on the piece on your page "What is Raku". Is the glaze on that
piece on the list of glaze recipes? If not do you know where I can find a
glaze to get a similar affect?
Thanks for your help,
Chuck
Hi Chuck:
That glaze is called Rick's Turquoise and involves an interesting
post-firing reduction process as detailed on the page at: http://www.garyrferguson.com\raku.htm
This glaze and about 300+ more are available at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com You can
get amazing colors of red, blue, yellow, burgundy, green, and copper.
Gary F.
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* * *
I have finally stared getting excellent results using copper
glazes. I can no longer get Gerstley Borate and am wondering what to
substitute it with? Do I have to change the whole recipe? I use Hutchens
Copper Matt mainly. Some help would be appreciated. Thanks Jo.
Hi Jo:
There are several possibilities for Gerstley Borate substation:
Gerstley Borate = Frit NR 169
Gerstley Borate = Frit 3134
Gerstley Borate = Frit 3195
Gerstley Borate = Frit 3269
Gerstley Borate = Laguna Borate
Gerstley Borate [100] = Murray's Borate Frit[100] + Bentonite[6]
Gerstley Borate = Potash Feldspar (but will raise maturity temperature)
You will definitely want to do some experimentation with these
substitutions.
Gary F.
* * *
Hi Gary,
I was wondering what temperature to fire copper matte glazes to. I have one
recipe with 10% frit & 90% copper oxide and was told to fire to 1900F,
but it seems to take all the color out of it. I know usually Raku glazes are
fired to about 1830F, but being matte it's hard to tell when it's
"done". What have you experienced with this tricky glaze?
Thanks,
Diana
Hi Diana:
I think I tried a glaze like this once and didn't have great results. I
think you have to reduce the heck out of the glaze to get color. As far as
temperature goes with matte glazes, you can fire as hot as you like, but at
some point a matte glaze will start to get glossy. That would be the point
of being too hot (unless that is the look you are going for). As far as
firing the color out. I have not had that experience except with some
commercial glazes that are brightly colored.
Thanks for your questions.
Gary F.
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* Q & A Continued III *
Hi
I'm new at mixing glazes. How much water for the Raku glazes? The
prepackaged glazes I've used have been 1:1 weight. Enjoyed your website and
have signed up for your newsletter.
Thanks
Betsy
Hi Betsy:
Glad you found my website and I hope you enjoy the newsletter. The amount of
water you add to a glaze is very variable. It will depend on the types of
chemicals in the glaze and the planned application of the glaze. For example
if you are going to spray a glaze you want it thinner than if you are going
to brush a glaze. In general, you want to add enough water to get the
consistency of whole milk or cream.
Gary F.
* * *
Hi
One more questions tonight: "Rainbow" recipe. Is each ingredient
by gram? 160, 40, 10, 5?
Thanks,
Betsy
Hi Betsy:
Unless the glaze quantities are noted in volume (like cups), they are by
weight and you can use any weight (or multiples) you want as long as you are
consistent.
For example you could use grams (160g, 40g, 10g, and 5g)
or pounds (160lb, 40lb, 10lb, and 5lb)
or 10x grams (1600g, 400g, 100g, and 50g)
Gary F.
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* Q & A Continued IV *
Gary,
I am interested in trying Raku on functional pieces rather than for
"show". Does Raku lend itself to vases that hold water, for
instance? Is there a way to get the Raku "look" if a true Raku
technique is not possible?
Thanks.
Rob
Hi Rob:
Raku is for non-functional pieces and should never be used for food, but you
can make water vases, fountains, etc. You just have to seal the inside of
the piece to keep the liquid from seeping through the clay. This can be done
using any of a variety of sealers from the hardware store.
Thanks for your questions.
Gary Ferguson
* * *
Hey Gary,
I'm in my third Raku class with the same instructor. After you e-mailed me
about beginning reduction in the kiln, last Fall or early winter, along with
some other recommendations, I showed them to the instructor and he happily
adjusted some of his methods. You may recall I was frustrated from getting
absolutely no coppers, just decent to yucky greens, and then in our last
firing, I was frustrated from too much copper. Well, I'm happy to say that
we have really honed our skills and the last two firings have produced
fantastic results. One reason is a formula we are using that came from
"Ceramics Today", I think. It's very simple with only 3
ingredients, but has 90% copper and yields a matte surface with colors
ranging from bright yellow to rust to purple and even some blue. When it
overlaps our white crackle, it flashes copper and is shiny. I'll be happy to
e-mail this recipe to you - but you may know exactly the one I mean. One
piece from last night's firing is a section pot that will become a drum. The
instructor makes these and I'm going to learn how to stretch the goatskin
and apply it from him.
I think your e-magazine is great.
Thanks, again, for your help.
Shannon P.
Hi Shannon:
I'm glad my suggestions worked and you are having the results you wanted.
I've also thought about making a Raku drum. If you get a chance I would love
an article from you on how it is done.
Thanks,
Gary F.
* * *
Hi Gary-
First of all thank you so much for the continued efforts you make to get the
Just Raku newsletter out-- as a hobby potter it's so great to get the
motivation to get back to it again, to read the questions, and your comments
are great too-- even if you've not been productive enough to make yourself
feel happy it's great to hear you talk about it, so that the rest of us know
that we're not alone! Thank you again for sharing your knowledge/experience,
and for working hard to take the time to keep the Just Raku contribution to
the pottery community going full-steam.
So my question for you is if you have any specific
suggestions for what to do pottery-wise with a few months in Europe? I have
a pretty unique opportunity... after several years of trying and maneuvering
with jobs, etc. we're FINALLY going to make it happen... my wife and I are
going to spend 3 months in Europe this year driving around. We'll be going
from Amsterdam around the coast
of France, across N Spain, into Italy and maybe Greece, then up the
Rhine/Rhone valley back to Amsterdam again, will be there Sept/Oct/Nov, and
wondering what you might suggest?
I like wheelwork for making... currently not so into
slab/handbuilding, but absolutely open to that and willing to learn,
especially if the right workshop is available. For glazes and firing
techniques would prefer to stick to Raku-- that's what I want to get better
at, wheel-throwing and Raku. I have a small homemade 55-gal drum fiber Raku
kiln (propane weed burner, it works ok) and have the typical problems
getting copper flash and colors from glazes.
I'd say my level is intermediate:
==> have a few years of throwing experience so pretty comfortable at 5 or
8 pounds on the wheel.
==> have a small electric ^6 kiln in the garage, an old Skutt 181, and
use Laguna MS ^6
commercial glazes for the oxidation stuff
==> have done a dozen or so Raku firings at the local community center,
including several where I did the full setup and breakdown of the gas-fired
kiln they have, and a few with the Zen kiln they have, and also a few on my
own.
So after reading about the Amsterdam potter a few months
ago, I got the idea to ask you about this. Dang it I missed those workshops
out west too, I was moving from Colorado to Florida and couldn't make it.
It's really too bad, but the 16-hour drive would have been tough too... oh
well. I'm in Tallahassee FL now and there are a few raku folks here, Robin
Rodgers being the most widely known local guy.
But I have a few months overseas later this year and want to
take advantage of the chance to visit some studios or pottery works, and
hopefully to get a few workshops in if that works out.
Guess I'm looking for suggestions on specific
workshops/events if you know of them, and how to find out about that kind of
thing. I have a subscription to Clay Times, but like a doofus I think the
Ceramics Monthly subscription has lapsed, but the Library is close so I can
peruse them there too. Any leads or ideas you have would be great.
Thanks in advance for your time. It's appreciated.
Stay centered--
Gregg
Hi Gregg:
That sounds like a great opportunity. I've had the opportunity to travel to
the Netherlands a couple of times in the past for business and have happened
upon a gallery or studio that had Raku. Unfortunately I don't know of any
specific workshops in Europe at that time. Maybe some of the Just Raku
readers do and will let me know.
Gary F.
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* Q & A Continued V *
I am new at "Raku". When I watch my friend fire
his pots he takes them out of the kiln, puts them in the reduction can and
the flames start right away. He holds the pot in the flames for a while
before he puts on the lid. I would like to know what it is he is waiting to
see while he holds the pot in the flames. I read about some potters that put
the pot in the can and then put the lid on without holding the pot in the
flames at all. I have no problems with your "Crackle Glaze", even
with oxides added for color. The glazes I have problems with are
"Hawaiian Blue" and the "Copper, Patina" types. I am not
getting those amazing colors possible with these glazes. I fire my pots just
like my friend fires his, at least I think I do, but I don't get the same
great results. I use a small metal trashcan lined with newspaper. I have
some paper on the bottom and I line the sides with paper. The flames start
right away. I would like to know what I should do right after I put the pot
in the can. Should I wait a moment and let the flames do what ever they do
or should I put the lid on right away?
Maybe you should offer a workshop on the coast of North Carolina. :)
Many Thanks
Jerry A.
Jerry:
I've played with the Hawaiian glaze quite a bit and have found:
Too little reduction - blue or green
Too much reduction - all copper
Just right - Rainbow flashing
So, how to get Just Right? That's the challenge. I usually remove the piece
from the kiln and then hold it in the air for 5 to 10 seconds before putting
it in the reduction chamber (much like the one you describe). Then wait
25-30 minutes before final cooling in a bucket of water. Sometimes I get
blue, or copper, or the rainbow flashing. That's called Raku! :)
Good Luck!
Gary F.
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* Q & A Continued VI *
Hello Gary,
I love all the work you do on the newsletter. I have found new techniques
and products that I would not be able to find in the little town I live in.
Thanks. I went on a Precious metal clay workshop 2 weeks ago. I keep hearing
people say you can Raku with it. I just can't find info on how to do it.
I've seen pictures and it looks great but I really want to try it. I know I
could just try and see what I get but it costs $50.00 an ounce. Too
expensive to just give it a try. If you can help I would be forever
grateful.
Lisa-Marie
Hi Lisa-Marie:
I'm not quite sure why you would want to Raku precious metal clay. I thought
the whole idea behind the precious metal clay is to make a piece, unglazed,
that when fired turns into metal (silver, gold, etc.). Now I could
understand if you want to fire the piece quickly in a Raku kiln, but I don't
think I would do a post firing reduction, etc unless you want to try and get
some "smoky" effect on the piece. I'm not even sure the metal
would absorb any smoke. Let me know if you learn of any other techniques
with precious metal clays.
Thanks,
Gary F.
* * *
Hi Gary,
Do you know if the Shadow Raku slip glaze is the one you can etch through to
get the design on burnish pot beneath it or is it the glaze you put over the
slip to do the same?
How's everything in Nampa? Thanks Gary. I enjoy your newsletter immensely.
Bruce in Spokane
Hi Bruce:
Given the ingredients of this glaze:
Shadow Raku Slip Glaze
EPK 5
Copper Carbonate 90
Soda Ash 5
I would assume this is a copper matte of some sort, and because of the high
amount of copper would be much like a stain and not a glaze that would lend
itself to sgraffito very well. You could use resists (tape or otherwise) to
make a pattern and then glaze over the top of that to get a defined design.
Glad you are enjoying the newsletter.
Thanks,
Gary F.
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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2004, Gary R. Ferguson
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