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The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers
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November 2004
Issue #25
Published by
Gary R. Ferguson - Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears - Contest and Quick Poll
* From The Studio - Beaux Arts Pottery Done
* Article - What Kind of Kiln?
* Tips/Techniques - Blowing up pieces
* Q&A - Blowtorch post firing?
* Glazing - Another Purple
* Reader Feedback - You said it.
* Calendar - Not much left for 2004
* Click Away - Raku on the Internet

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Hello and Welcome Old and New Subscribers,
(no this is not in relation to your actual age)

The "sign up your friends" contest for the free Raku Glazes ebook is going well. There is still time to enter for your chance to win: http://www.garyrferguson.com/contest.htm

Quick Poll
Is the Just Raku Newsletter?
1) Too short mailto:qpshort@garyrferguson.com 
2) Too long mailto:qplong@garyrferguson.com
3) Just right mailto:qpright@garyrferguson.com

To all my US subscribers I want to wish you an early Happy Thanksgiving. We will be having a "mob" at my house for dinner, so wish me luck!

Remember I always look forward to your feedback, suggestions, questions, and article ideas at: mailto:editor@garyrferguson.com.

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist -
mailto:pottery@garyrferguson.com

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Here is an easy (and free) way to support this newsletter. Open a new eBay account by clicking on the link below and select "register" at the top. Then bid on something, anything. You don't even have to have high bid. Your "clicking" will be very much appreciated. http://www.qksrv.net/click-411938-2202639
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* From the Studio *

Well I was busy in the studio again this month, with glazing and firing. I managed to get all the pieces I needed to deliver to the Beaux Arts sale.

The sale is over and I've picked up what didn't sell. It was pretty much an average year for sales.

With no more art shows scheduled, I'll be hitting eBay pretty strong for the rest of the year. Christmas is just around the corner.

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* Article *

What Kind of Kiln?

So you want to do Raku? Well you need a kiln, but what kind?

Well there are basically two types of kilns: electric and gas. Both have their positives and negatives for the Raku potter. So which should you choose?

Electric
An electric kiln is normally made of bricks, runs on special 220-voltage wiring, has an analog or digital controller, and is fairly easy to use. You can control the temperature pretty easily. They come in a variety of sizes, are a little cheaper than a gas kiln. But an electric kiln only fires in an oxidized atmosphere and takes a considerable amount of time to reach Raku temperatures. They are also very difficult to make yourself.

Gas
A gas kiln on the other hand, can be made of brick or ceramic fiber, runs on propane or natural gas, and can be fired in either oxidation or reduction. They also come in a variety of sizes (both permanent and portable). They can quickly reach Raku temperatures in just a few minutes. And it is possible to make one fairly easily. But they are a little more difficult to fire and more difficult to control the temperature.

Best of Both Worlds
So given these characteristics, it would be ideal to have one of each: an electric kiln to fire you bisque ware and a gas kiln for glaze firings. This way you have excellent temperature control during the bisque firing, and you have the speed and possible reduction capabilities with a gas kiln.

Only one?
Ok, so you only want or can afford one kiln. What should you choose? If I was new to ceramics, I think I would get an electric kiln (which could be used for both bisque and Raku) and not worry about trying to fire in reduction, keeping in mind it is also easy to build a simple gas kiln later for just a couple hundred dollars.

If I was more experienced potter, I would get a gas kiln which would allow for all types of firing, but would require more experience to fire properly.

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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
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* Tips and Techniques *

How to keep pots from exploding?

I've had several reports of exploding pots, and questions as to what can be done to prevent it from happening. The following are some questions you should ask yourself and see if they address the problem:

Is the Glaze still wet? If so, make sure you wait until they are good and dry (24-hours is ideal.)

How fast are you firing? Small kilns with large burners can reach Raku temperature is just a couple of minutes. I normally take it a little slower - around 60 minutes for a firing.

What cone do you bisque your pieces? I usually fire to cone 06. If you don't bisque hot enough, the bisque ware may absorb too much water and glaze.

What kind of clay are you using? You want to use clay that has a little grog or sand in it. If you clay doesn't, you can always wedge in some Kyanite.

Finally, are you setting pieces directly in front of the flame or directly on a kiln shelf? This is a harsh thermal shock. The burner flame should be set to miss pieces directly, and you should set pieces on stilts.

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Amazon sells more than books! The holidays are coming! Avoid the lines, shop online without leaving your easy chair, and help support this newsletter all at the same time by using the following link: http://tinyurl.com/x5xa
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* Q & A *

Q: Have you ever heard of tweaking the firing / reduction process with a propane torch after the majority of the effect has happened. I imagine this would be on a piece cool enough to touch.

A: Yes I have and I have actually used the technique a few times.

I do it if I feel a piece has too much copper. I take the piece when it has cooled a little (but still have to use gloves to handle it), and wave a small blowtorch over sections of the piece. As these sections heat, they will start to re-oxidize (go from copper to blue/green). As the heat is removed they will flash rainbow colors around the edge of the heated spot.

I've also seen the technique used to create an interesting polka dot pattern that looks much like a peacock feather.

You want to be careful you don't apply too much heat on any particular section for too long or the piece may crack, break, or explode.

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* Glazing *

Ancient Amethyst (Purple Revisited)
(from Patricia)

Gerstley Borate 80
Nepheline Syenite 20
Cobalt Oxide 0.5%
Manganese Carbonate 2-5%

When I read about your purple crackle, and the variable colors you got, I thought I would share one of my glaze experiments. I have tried a variant of the Soldner 80/20 glaze, with 0.5 % cobalt, and 2-5 % Manganese. I consistently got purple color only when the pot is aired enough to both get good crackle and hardened enough to not actually reduce the glaze. Just the smoking, and no reduction of the actual glaze produce purple. Good post firing reduction consistently produced blue. The more manganese the darker the purple up to a certain point, at least, and the lower percentages produce a lovely glaze that I named it "ancient amethyst" for its smoky amethyst color. I bet the higher amounts of cobalt give a darker purple.

300+ More Raku Glazes can be found at: http://www.rakuglazes.com

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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
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* Reader Feedback *

Hi Gary
Just want to say thanks for putting my web site address in last month's Just Raku newsletter. Cheers!

Here's a good cheep way of sealing Raku pots for functional use. Just use some wood varnish or anything similar.

By the way I've tried 15 of your Raku glazes from your e-book (http://www.rakuglazes.com) and they all look great. I added silver nitrate to 5 of them and got some stunning effects.

Just wondering do you know anybody who would be interested in buying 1kg of Silver Nitrate?
Thanks
John S.

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Hi John:
I'm glad you are having good results with the recipes.
Thanks for the tips.
Gary F

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Hi Gary,
Thanks a million for the Just Raku Newsletter, I really love it and look forward to reading it each month.

I am a glass blower but have always loved the look of Raku. All the information you sent me inspired me to buy my first 50 pounds of clay. The experiment begins!

Thanks Again,
Tim T.

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Hi Tim:
Glad I could trap . . . er . . . I mean introduce you to the world of Raku.

Have Fun!!!
Gary F.

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Hi Gary -
I'm yet another appreciative recipient of the newsletter. I honestly get more out of your newsletter than any of the magazines I subscribe to. I have a question/problem I've been trying to solve for a while and not coming up with a solution that I'm satisfied with. I'd like to find a way to Raku several small pieces at the same time - it just seems like a waste of fuel for smaller pieces and sometimes I like to make smaller things that are really hard to pick up with tongs.

I tried to make a basket using a barbecue grill as the base and wiring some heavy duty wire mesh (the kind with the little squares - I forget what they call it) but after three fires the mesh gave way where the wire was holding it to the grill. So if you - or anybody - have come up with a way that'll work I'd really appreciate it.

Take care - and thanks -
Joanne S.

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Joanne:
Glad to know you are enjoying the newsletter.

Firing small items can be a challenge for both removal and reduction. I have fired earrings, broaches, and pendants a few times and have created a handy little tool to do this.

What I did was threw a disk/plate about 8 inches across and about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. In the center I threw a small cylinder about 4 inches tall and about 1 1/2 inches across. Then I bisque fired the piece.

I now place my small Raku items on the plate and place the whole thing in the kiln. The cylinder gives me a good thing to grab to remove the whole thing from the kiln to the reduction chamber.

It has survived about a dozen firings and has started showing some stress cracks so I may have to make another soon, but it has worked well so far.

Hope this helps.
Gary F.


Hello,
I have been making Raku jewelry for some time: earrings, pendants and pins mainly. I would also like to experiment with beads. My question is do you have any suggestions for how to fire these in terms of a way to get all those tiny bits into the reduction canister red hot? I have fired them on bisque tile, but then the backs don't reduce well and the tile cracks pretty often. A neighbor that welds made me this great contraption that was basically an expanded metal tray with a handle, but that disintegrated after half a dozen firings or so. I need a way to fire maybe thirty pair earrings at a time.

Any ideas? I thought I remembered a mention of jewelry in a past newsletter.

Thanks in advance,
Bianka F.

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Hi Bianka:
I built a little tool that would allow me to fire Raku beads.

I basically threw a cylinder about a foot tall, slightly tapered so it was about 1.5 inches across the top about 3 inches across the bottom. I then got some High Fire Wire (Nichrome I believe) and cut several 8-inch pieces. I then stuck these through the cylinder creating a "wire tree". I then bisqued the piece and can now hang beads on these wires and remove the whole tree from the kiln at the same time.

Hope this helps.
Gary F.

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Hi Gary,
I am very interested in your book, but was wondering if you had made any adjustments in consideration of the recent shortage of Gerstley Borate. I have used Gillespie Borate in some formulas, and it is not quite the same. Can you enlighten me about the current ideas on this issue?
Thanks loads!
Norma W.

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Hi Norma:

In my Raku Glazes ebook (http://www.rakuglazes.com) I do include several possible substitutions for Gerstley Borate (testing of course is highly recommended), but I have done limited testing so far.

Gerstley Borate is still available in most areas and to my understanding will for a few more years, so you might still be able to get enough for your work.

Gary F.

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Hi Gary,

Just received your first newsletter - glad that I found your site, it has got a lot of good information for me.

I've been doing Raku here in Denmark for 4 years now. I
am currently working on getting my glazes really fat and slow running so that you get a thick uneven glazing where you can see the thick traces of the glaze running down.

I have tried with a thick bone ash neutral glaze as base and then a normal glaze on top - but that did not quiet make it.

I have heard something about adding a lot of
extra quartz to the glaze should do it? Have you got any ideas?

Hope that you can answer my question and thank you in advance for this. And greetings from Denmark! (I have already recommended your site to my ceramic friends here
:-)
Lars B.

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Lars:
It is my understanding if you add silica (quartz) to a glaze it will make it less likely to run, so I think you are on the right track.

Thanks for the referrals to the website and newsletter.
Gary F.

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* Calendar *

eBay listings are the only thing left for this year http://tinyurl.com/tn08

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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques - James C. Watkins, Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

Chris Tennis
http://www.potteryonthehill.com/

Quiddity Studio & Gallery
http://www.quiddity.pec.on.ca/

Just Raku Logowear
http://www.cafepress.com/justraku

Got Raku? It does a Clay Body Good!
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku

Just Raku Newsletter Archive
The past issues can be found at http://www.JustRaku.com

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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2004, Gary R. Ferguson
 

  

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